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Whenever compiling a list of London’s top dining spots, one might foresee well-known Michelin-starred venues. However, tucked near the top among these gastronomic giants is a modest salonu situated in a far-flung corner of north London.

A Surprise Honour

The little Turkish spot, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the city by a influential food magazine. The honour has left the family completely astonished.

“I am utterly shocked,” remarks a proprietor, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their small shop securing such a prominent position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The compact space, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing destination, has retained much of its former charm. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” notes the owner.

The Star Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the fare, and this restaurant certainly excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a succulent texture.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. Once the savoury mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is usually eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in less syrup than is typical, giving it a richer, toastier and less sickly taste.

Rising Above the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, equivalent meals at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

The Philosophy of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is most important is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Dedication

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not train at fancy restaurants. “I feel really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she had a personal life but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is likely to have meaning outside its own doors. “I believe numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the wider meaning of this gastronomic achievement.